Merry Christmas! Happy Hangovers!

Happy New Year!

Merry Christmas!  Celebrate with my favourite cocktail, the vodka martini.  The secret to the perfect martini is to get the vodka super cold by storing it in the freezer.  Rinse a glass with vermouth, pour the vodka and garnish with a lemon twist or an olive.  Cheers!

The period between Christmas and New Year is delightful.  The preference is to nest with family and friends while eating rich food and drinking copiously (although a few masochistic friends attempt meaningful exercise during this period, usually returning to work in January having broken a leg on a ski slope).  There is nothing better during this season than to be in the company of good friends with a bellyful of wine and a fat cigar.

What happens with about a week’s worth of solid drinking is that one has to face up to a week’s worth of mornings-after.  A sure fire hangover cure is required.  The inestimable Kingsley Amis (from whom I have cribbed rather generously) suggested two components to the hangover – the physical hangover and the metaphysical hangover.  One consists of the physical symptoms of overindulging; the headache, nausea and all that.  The other consists of the general sense of blahness one feels after the pounding headache starts to recede.

The only proper cure for a hangover is to start drinking again, as soon as possible.

However, your body and mind may need a bit of working over before you can hit the bottle afresh.  The first challenge is to work on the physical hangover.  The best cure is to wake up next to someone and have vigorous sex – the endorphins will give you both a physical and emotional boost.  However, this assumes you wake up next to someone you should be in bed with.  If this is not the case and you might have a bad conscience about it afterwards then abstain; guilt and shame are a big part of the metaphysical hangover and sex will only exacerbate the situation.  For the same reason do not take the matter into your own hands if you should wake up by yourself.

Flaming the absinthe is a delightful tradition in my home.  It brings out my inner pyromaniac and it scares the children into silence.  Pour absinthe over a sugar cube balanced on a slotted spoon (or fork).  Light the sugar cube.  The flames will eventually ignite the contents in the glass as well.  When you've tired of this, pour iced water to douse the flames.  Drink deeply. Try not to cut off your ear afterwards.

Flaming the absinthe is a delightful tradition in my home. It brings out my inner pyromaniac and it scares the children into silence. Pour absinthe over a sugar cube balanced on a slotted spoon (or fork). Light the sugar cube. The flames will eventually ignite the contents in the glass as well. When you’ve tired of this, pour iced water to douse the flames. Drink deeply. Try not to cut off your ear afterwards.

Shower and shave.  Under no circumstances take a cold shower.  The shock could kill you.  Shaving will help you improve your hand eye coordination and blood letting is a well known cure for illness.  Galen of Pergamon famously believed that blood letting cured “fever, headaches and apoplexy”.  I am not exactly sure what apoplexy is but it seems like a good thing to be rid of.

Do not attempt to eat anything healthy.  It will make you throw up.  Your body is dealing with toxicity and must be gently introduced to solids.  Most diets ban all carbohydrates; potatoes, bread and the like.  I would also ban all fruit and vegetable from the morning after diet.  You never liked it so why eat it when you are feeling particularly shitty anyway? A large steak with fried eggs, perhaps with a few rashers of bacon and a dash of tabasco lays a good foundation.

The drink that accompanies this meal must be a properly made Bloody Mary – the time tested hair of the dog that bit you.  Vodka, tomato juice, worcester sauce, tabasco sauce, freshly ground black pepper, cayenne, celery salt and a few sticks of celery (for garnishing only – do not attempt to eat a vegetable at this stage).  I like to add a generous dollop of fresh horseradish and mix in a cube of beef bouillon.  The beef bouillon adds food value and has the added benefit of keeping your vegetarian great aunt from stealing your potion.  Drink at least a pint of this mix before moving on to the metaphysical cure.

A classic bond flick is part of the recovery process.  So is a drink.  This is a Vesper Martini, cribbed from Casino Royale.  3 measures gin, 1 measure vodka, 1/2 measure Lillet Blanc.  Drink shaken. not stirred.  Obviously.

A classic Bond flick is part of the recovery process. So is a drink. This is a Vesper Martini, cribbed from Casino Royale. 3 measures gin, 1 measure vodka, 1/2 measure Lillet Blanc. Drink shaken, not stirred. Obviously.

Now at this point I must advice you that there are variants to my morning after diet. Winston Churchill famously had a brace of cold snipe and a pint of port after a hard night’s drinking.  Samuel Taylor Coleridge had a half dozen fried eggs and a glass of laudanum (an alcoholic tincture of opium) and seltzer.  Take your pick.

The metaphysical cure to the hangover – getting rid of blahness means paying attention to your other senses.  Music and movies are a good bet.  Do not listen to anything shouty or any drum and bass (its annoying even when you are sober).  Don’t listen to any blues or jazz either – their themes are melancholy and will make you depressed.  Avoid opera as well – too many good people die in them and they will make you depressed.  Light classical music without vocals is recommended.  Vocals are annoying: you are still not ready to deal with other humans and the sound of voices will grate on you.

When you are ready to engage your eyes with moving pictures watch something to raise the pulse and make you feel good.  Do not watch art movies, romantic flicks or anything by a female director.  They will make you depressed.  A Sean Connery era Bond movie is always a good bet while Bruce Lee kills bad people with style.

Go then.  Drink and be merry.  May the spirits be with you!  Merry Christmas!

A version of this blog appeared last year

Last Minute Gifts to Souse Your Spouse

The Sacred spirits be with you!  Six botanicals and a bottle of gin.

The Sacred spirits be with you! Six botanicals and a bottle of gin.

It’s a bit sad isn’t it?  You’ve had all year to figure out what to get your friends and family and here you are the Sunday before Christmas trying to determine whether Amazon can deliver on time.  I know a few friends who were hoping the world would end on the 21st thus negating the need for gift shopping.  Now what?

A few thoughts.  I recently discovered Carpano Antica Formula Vermouth.  Vermouth was invented by Antonio Benedetto Carpano in Turin in 1786.  His company has been making the stuff in small batches ever since.  If the only vermouth you’ve tasted to date has been a nondescript mixer in a Manhattan or a Negroni prepare to be amazed.  This has depth, complexity and a hint of bitterness.  Perfect by itself or in your cocktail.

Carpano Antica Formula - my drink discovery of the year.

Carpano Antica Formula – my drink discovery of the year.

The Sacred distillery makes craft gin and vodka in Highgate, up the hill from where I live.  Ian Hart makes his spirit in the back room of his house while the more flammable part of the operation is situated in a Wendy house at the bottom of his garden.  Their gin blending kit of six organic botanicals lets you mix your own gin.  The botanical distillates: juniper, citrus, angelica, coriander, cardamom and liquorice, also make fun additives to your favourite gin as a flavour enhancer.  Gin gin!

For a special bottle of wine, visit Hedonism on Davies Street in Mayfair, the brainchild of exiled Russian mobile phone tycoon Evgeny Chichvarkin.  They have what is thought to be the most complete collection of high end wines, champagnes, gins, rums etc.  Every year of Chateau d’Yquem, Hannibal Lecter’s favourite sauterne, is stocked. The Chateau d’Yquem 1811 they have for sale is thought to be the oldest bottle in the world. You can touch a £5,000 (US $8,000) bottle of Chateau Lafite or purchase a £120,000 bottle of Penfold’s Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon 2004.  If you are worried about how to open a £120,000 (US $194,000) bottle of wine don’t worry – Penfold’s jets over a wine maker from Australia to do it for you.  The wines at Hedonism start at £15 (US $25) although this will never be your local off-license, unless you happen to be a hedge fund manager. Or a Russian exile.

The display is as outrageous as the wine selection at Hedonism

The display is as outrageous as the wine selection at Hedonism

James Bond fans who’ve seen the movie Skyfall will know his penchance for the 50 year old Macallan scotch whisky.  The 1962 is available at Selfridges as is the rather rarer 1950 vintage – for a cool £6,000 (US $9,700).  The Macallan 18 year old is still a very special whisky, matured in sherry oak casks.  At around £100 (US $120) it is a little easier on the pocket book.

Macallan 1950

Macallan 1950 at Selfridges

And what if your friends and family are teetotallers?  God bless you.  You really need a drink!

Merry Christmas!

Where to get them

The wine shop at Selfridges in London has a superb selection, as does the online Whisky Exchange. The Whisky Exchange also sells miniature bottles of alcohol of the kind served on airlines – great for trying out a new drink or for a picnic.  In New York City, Astor Wines is an old favourite and stocks Antica Formula. They also have a superb online shop and an extensive range of kosher and organic wines.

Serendipity is a Tamarind Martini

Howzat! World class cricket is usually on offer in Sri Lanka.  New Zealand gets thrashed in Galle.

Howzat! World class cricket is usually on offer in Sri Lanka. New Zealand getting thrashed in Galle.

Take a fun loving tropical island nation and lock the people up for three decades.  Then throw open the doors and let the sun shine in.  That is what’s happening in Sri Lanka as the nation gets used to the idea of living without a civil war.  The country is busting loose as it throws off its shackles and enjoys life in the 21st century.  Named by Lonely Planet as the number one tourist destination for 2013 and cited by the New York Times, Conde Nast Traveller and National Geographic Traveller as a top holiday destination, the country is experiencing a 50% year on year increase in tourist arrivals.  As the winter chill grips London and New York, I chased the sun and escaped to Sri Lanka.

The ride from the airport to Colombo is hair raising. Some countries drive on the left hand side of the road, some countries drive on the right.  In Sri Lanka they appear to drive in the shade.  Driving in Sri Lanka is a contact sport.

Arriving at my mother’s house an hour or so later, I needed a tipple.  What to drink?

The national brew is distilled from the unopened flowers of the coconut palm. Each morning at dawn, men walk between coconut palms on tight ropes, collecting the nectar.   The liquid naturally and immediately ferments into a milky coloured, mildly alcoholic drink called toddy or palm wine.  On beach vacations my parents would give us kids fresh toddy – guaranteed to make sure we fell asleep and didn’t bother the grown ups.  Get your beachfront hotel or local friends to procure toddy for you – it should only be drunk fresh and isn’t commercially available.  Local toddy taverns are grotty working men’s drinking holes where you squat on the ground and drink out of coconut shells.  Don’t.

A toddy tapper at work

A toddy tapper at work

To make a more refined brew, toddy is poured into wooden vats made of teak or halmilla where the natural fermentation continues.  Pot stills enter the process at some point resulting in a beverage called Arrack (about 35% alcohol by volume).  The drink has a golden whiskey hue.  It’s flavour falls somewhere between whiskey and rum, sweeter than scotch but with a powerful aftertaste.   Arrack is widely available in Sri Lanka and is usually drunk with soda or ginger beer.  Old Reserve remains my favourite brand.  Harvey Nichols sells Sri Lankan arrack in London.

The local beers, made in the hill country in breweries established by the Brits are good strong lagers.  Lion Lager is a personal favourite.  The Victorian Brits also distilled gin in Sri Lanka. The quinine in the tonic water in a G+T protects against Malaria.  A good reason to imbibe. Rockland’s Gin is a delightfully aromatic gin – in London you can find it at Purl and the Worship Street Whistling Shop  (for a review read Maggie Thatcher and Drinking Baby Milk Formula).

For a non-alcoholic beverage, stick to king coconut water. It costs £3.00 (US $5) for a can at my gym in Notting Hill.  A few pence will get you the fresh stuff in Sri Lanka.  Drink it straight out of the coconut, for an authentic if slightly dribble ridden experience.

Tamarind Martini at the Gallery Cafe.  Vodka, Vermouth, Tamarind Liquid.  Chilli on the rim.

Tamarind Martini at the Gallery Cafe. Vodka, Tamarind Juice, Amaretto. Chilli on the rim.

No trip to Colombo is complete without sipping a cocktail at the Galle Face Hotel.  Established in 1864 this is the oldest hotel east of the Suez.  Its guest list includes Mark Twain, Anton Chekov, John D. Rockefeller, Yuri Gagarin, Richard Nixon and various members of British royalty.  It’s listed in the book 1000 Places to See Before You Die. On arrival, waiters padding silently in bare feet greet you.  On my last visit a purposeful looking security guard prowled the garden armed with a slingshot to chase away crows.  Anything fancy will test the bartenders here – ask for a simple Gin and Tonic or Arrack and Soda.  Hang out by the salt water pool naturally refreshed by currents from the Indian Ocean and enjoy the sunset.

The Galle Face Hotel.  Sit where Chekov sat and raise a glass...

The Galle Face Hotel. Sit where Chekov sat and raise a glass…

Sticking to the colonial theme I usually meet friends at the Colombo Rowing Club (it is a member’s only establishment so get a local friend to take you).  Racing sculls are stored on the ground floor.  Upstairs is a wonderfully atmospheric teak paneled room, open on three sides, overlooking the Beira Lake.  Wooden plaques commemorate long forgotten rowing victories against colonial rivals. Fan blades churn the air overhead, moving the air and keeping the mosquitos at bay.  The draft Lion Lager is excellent here as is the spicy devilled seafood.

Live jazz at Qbaa

Live jazz at Qbaa

The hottest venue in Colombo currently is Qbaa where I listened to live jazz and blues while sipping a margarita.  Financed by cricket legend Sanath Jayasuriya, it offers a sophisticated drinking and dining experience.  There is an extensive cocktail menu, but I find that sticking to standard summer cocktails is generally advisable in Sri Lanka – mixologists are thin on the ground.  Margaritas, Cosmopolitans and Mojitos are generally safe.  If you want to push the boat out on cocktails try the Floor by O overlooking the cricket pitch at the Colombo Hockey and Football Club.  They are seeking entry into the Guinness Book of World Records for the most number of cocktails on a menu – they currently boast over 1500.   I love the tamarind martinis at The Gallery Café, served in the former office of Geoffrey Bawa, the premier South Asian architect of his generation.

Inside at the Gallery Cafe

Delightful decor at the Gallery Cafe

Sri Lanka is firmly entrenched in the South Asian tradition of dynastic rule.  Get a flavour for it at Tintagel, the former residence of Prime Minister S.W.R.D. Bandaranaike, his wife Sirima (the world’s first woman prime minister) and their daughter Chandrika Kumaratunga (a former President).  In a macabre twist you can walk on the spot where Mr Bandaranaike was fatally shot by a Buddhist monk.  That’s the problem with holy rollers – you never know when they are packing heat under their robes.

Tintagel: a suitable venue for a prime minister

Tintagel: a suitable venue for a prime minister

The Bandaranaike’s were ardent socialists and nationalised many private enterprises, effectively destroying them.  At the height of his campaign MPs avoided the Men’s Room at the House of Parliament, worried that they might bump into the rather fay prime minister who was known to nationalise anything big…

It is ironic that the home of socialists is now home to an upmarket French/European hotel and restaurant catering to a very capitalist clientele.  If you really want to eat European food in Sri Lanka or impress a local lass, go.  The food is good, the decor is divine.  Bring your own booze however, since the last time I visited, Tintagel couldn’t get a liquor license on account of being located near a school.

This is the time to visit Sri Lanka.  The most expensive cocktail I could find cost only 980 rupees (about £5 or US$ 7), but prices are rising fast as the country finds its feet and gets firmly onto the tourist circuit.  Watch some cricket, lie on a beach, catch some rays, sip a cocktail.  No wonder Horace Walpole coined the word Serendipity (finding something good without looking for it) after visiting Serendib, the ancient name by which Arab traders referred to Sri Lanka. Go!

Insider Info

My boyhood friend Nishad Wijetunge and his wife Budeni run the excellent Wayfarers boutique travel agency whom I use to arrange all my holidays in Sri Lanka.  Tell him I sent you.